lunedì 6 maggio 2013

Frankenjura spring trip!

I just returned from another trip in the forests of the Frankenjura in Germany!
It was my 15th trip here so I have nothing more to say about the place,the climbing,the landscapes,the people... Everything in my opinion is perfect here and I feel like at home.
Finally for the first time I managed to bring other friends and for the first week we were a nice crew of 6!
Unfortunately the weather has been horrible for many days at the beginning and the rocks were really wet from all the rain and snow of this past winter.
All the routes I wanted to try were unclimbable and soaked so I had to find some dry or semi dry stuffs.
Keeping the motivation high was really hard with that weather and besides that, after a couple of days of climbing on wet holds I got two bad splits.
After a few days a big part of the crew left but me and Ema had another 10days planned! The weather finally became more sunny and stable and my two splits were healed!
 My main project for the trip stayed wet for all the lenght of the trip so I had to move the attention on some other routes.
After only a few tries of work each I was able to do  a couple of 8c+ and one 8c of course all of them estabilished from Markus Bock!
 During attempts on the harder projects I really wanted to do some classics from the 80's and possibly from Wolfgang Güllich!
Here is a list of the routes I climbed during this trip:
- Three Suns and One Star 8c+
- Sympathy for the Devil 8c+ (photos)
- Second Place is the First Loser 8c
- Kamasutra 218 8b (Gullich '86)
- Killer 8b (Gullich '87)
- Amadeus Schwarzenegger 8a+ (Gullich '86)
- Amboss 8a+ ('88)
- Melanom 8a+ ('89)
- 00 Faber 8a+ ('96)
- Engel und Bestien 8a ('85)

And here is a little trailer from my friend Matteo Pavana "The Vertical Eye" about the first wet week of the trip!

1 commento:

  1. Hi Gabriele,
    conditions are a lot better now. Most crags have dried up due to less rain and some wind!
    Come to Frankenjura for another trip before it´s getting too hot.
    Jan (Pornowand)